Not sure what was going on, but suddenly High Sierra on my MacBook Pro seemed to have lost interest in syncing with macOS Server’s Caldav. After wiping the cache on the MacBook Pro following these instructions, syncing is back in business. Soon afterward, I upgraded the MacBook Pro (macbookpro12,1) to macOS Catalina. I’ll post back if this strangeness returns.
After upgrading to the latest beta of UniversalMailer (3b19) and Catalina 10.15.3, I found the UniversalMailer plugin was disabled and stopped working. Fortunately, aus-coders posted a code fix for a single .plist file documented below:
1. Quit Mail.app and open up Terminal.app.
2. Inside Terminal.app’s window paste in “sudo pico /Library/Mail/Bundles/UniversalMailer.mailbundle/Contents/Info.plist” and press return to enter your password.
3. Scroll down to the bottom of the document and on the line above “
Supported10.15PluginCompatibilityUUIDs # UUIDs for versions from 10.12 to 99.99.99 # For mail version 12.0 (3445.100.39) on OS X Version 10.14.1 (build 18B45d) A4343FAF-AE18-40D0-8A16-DFAE481AF9C1 # For mail version 13.0 (3594.4.2) on OS X Version 10.15 (build 19A558d) 6EEA38FB-1A0B-469B-BB35-4C2E0EEA9053
4. Press the “control” and “x” keys and then press “y” to save.
5. Launch Mail.app reactivate the UniversalMailer plug-in.
In the future, it may be necessary to use this fix to patch the .plist file for future versions of Catalina (and beyond). The code in step 3 can be updated for future versions of Mail.app, as long as you get the updated UUID, which is the long string of numbers and letters separated by dashes. To get Mail.app’s updated UUID, use the following:
1. Open Terminal.app and paste in “sudo pico /System/Applications/Mail.app/Contents/Info.plist”.
2. Press “control” and “W” and enter “UUID”. Copy the line beneath “
PluginCompatibilityUUID
“, which looks like this for Catalina 10.5.3:
6EEA38FB-1A0B-469B-BB35-4C2E0EEA9053
3. Paste this code following steps 1 through 5, up above.
I’ve got an older, now discontinued, Oster Professional 103582-0100 animal trimmer. The trimmer has worked well for us over the years; however, several of the black plastic guide combs have broken. After contacting Oster’s support team, they recommended that I use part number 76926-580. It appears Amazon lists the replacement guide combs under part number 76926580, UPC 034264451667, ASIN B007K6SRM0, model 76926-580-000, and SKU OST76926580G.
I ordered the replacement blades from a vendor on eBay. From what I gather from online posts, the 103582-0100 trimmer body is compatible with guide combs for many reportedly similar models, potentially including:
Oster the Vibe clipper
Oster Cool Vibes clipper
Deep Vibes clipper
76080
Fast Feed
Speed Line
Magnetic Clipper
820
284
650
974
Animal Clipper Model 182 Series
International Model 189-82B EPO5E Clipper
Surely these replacements can’t fit all of these, but I’ll update if the community or my sources provide additional info.
References:
http://www.cachebeauty.com/Oster/guide_combs_6-set.htm
A bit of an M$-centric post, but this issue has bugged me on a few occasions: if you use Outlook’s Quick Steps to archive messages in your inbox to a Public Folder continue reading. In the past when I have attempted to create a new Quick Steps button that links to a Public Folder location, I have found the Public Folder I’m interested in unavailable for selection. To make the Public Folder of interest available to make a new Quick Steps button, we have to coax Outlook by adding the Public Folder to the recently used folder list. The steps below help us to make the Quick Steps button; steps 1 and 2 involve archiving a message which helps to add the Public Folder to the recently used folder list and steps 3 through 5 help create the new Quick Steps button:
That’s all! I feel like M$ could eliminate this issue by allowing us to select a Public Folder that is not part of our recent folders list, but I’m more of an Apple user.
Thanks to DJBenson, who posted the instructions below:
Log in to https://home.nest.com with your credentials then browse to https://home.nest.com/session in the same tab, you will see a JSON object of your session. Look for the string enclosed in the quotes after “access_token” and copy that to the clipboard (copy the full string between the two quotes).
It looks something like this:
{“2fa_state”:”none”,”access_token”:”REDACTED”…
In your Homebridge config.json, remove the email and password fields and create a new parameter called “access_token” like such:
{
"platform": "Nest",
"access_token": "***REDACTED***,
"options": [
"HomeAway.AsOccupancySensor",
"Protect.MotionSensor.Disable"
]
},
Thanks, Tina! My first pair of toasty slippers in a few years. These badboys are model RN 88276 and have an upper lining and sock lining consisting of 100% wool. So far I can say they are very warm and seem size 12’s seem to run a bit small on my feet (I wear size 12’s in street shoes and size 11.5 in soccer shoes). Curious to see how they compress and fit over time.
My 2001 Volkswagen New Beetle GLS had recurring OBD2 trouble codes, P0171 and P1582, coming up over the summer. Reading other threads, I popped the hood and found a short piece (~1 foot) of disintegrated hose on the left hand side of the engine block (American passenger side). I pulled off the hose clamps and what little cloth like tubing remained and replaced the tubing with black silicone tubing purchased from an eBay auction with these specifications:
The new tubing fits like a glove and the listing is still available: https://www.ebay.com/itm/161551221275.
I’ve had this hose installed for almost 4 months with exposure to hot (90 degrees Fahrenheit) and cool conditions (10 degrees Fahrenheit) and my 2001 New Beetle GLS is purring like a pussy cat again. Even better, the trouble codes have stopped.
I love my Lumma light grips. Each light/laser packs a 750 mAh battery, which work wonderfully all winter. I’ve had my Big Dummy fall sideways and smash the the Lumma light grip into concrete and except for a few scratches, they seem unfazed.
The buttons have been a little finicky, but they work. Also, the USB port cover has broken off a couple of my grips. This isn’t so bad, but it allows rain to go right inside the grips and soak the PCB. Sadly, I let this happen to a couple of my grips. After this happens, I attempted to turn the lights on and they don’t seem to want to illuminate, or they might after the first soaking and from that point forward, they only sporadically light up.
This weekend, I pulled out my two bad light grips that are exhibiting the behavior described above. Accessing the PCB is really easy, two Phillips machine screws come out and the grip housing separates. After you unplug the battery from the PCB, the board slides right out – be careful to not let the laser lens and LED gaskets to get away.
Using my 50X magnifier (thanks Frank!), I looked at the pin connections for the button and where they attach to the board. Sadly, I don’t have pictures showing a closeup of the damage, but I found that solder points between the pads and the S2 button had cracked and separated. No problem, just a little heat from my solder gun and silver solder and I’m back in business! I fixed two light grips and a third is exhibiting different behavior that I haven’t figured out how to fix yet (the third one stays illuminated and only extinguishes the red LED when either of the buttons is pressed – yeah, pretty messed up). Still, I’m tickled silly to have two other grips back in service!
Comcast emailed me about changing settings – they are no longer allowing outbound email and port 25.
My aging Loftek Nexus 543 security camera has been jamming outbound messages on port 25 for years. There are no updates for its firmware, so I logged on thinking it might be in trouble of not supporting the present. Lo and behold, its sending test messages with Comcast while configured with these settings:
We have Comcast for internet-only service. Earlier this year, we successfully removed all TV plans and charges by exchanging messages with a Comcast representative in the support area of their website:
https://forums.xfinity.com/t5/Stream-TV-App/STREAM-BETA-APP-ON-SAMSUNG-75-INCH-TV-IS-NOT-IN-FULL-SCREEN/m-p/3205833/highlight/true#M21342
– strike up a conversation with a Comcast Employee by sending a private message as described in the link above and state that you’d like to drop tv service and go with internet-only
– the Comcast Employee you connect with will walk you through options you request and help activate your new plan
Or, you may be able to do the same by logging into your account through Comcast’s website to directly manage your plan – you can opt out of television and phone plans and choose an internet-only plan:
https://www.xfinity.com/learn/offers?lob=internet
– sign in to your account
– click above link again if you weren’t already signed in
– click “View all offers”
– click “Filter”, uncheck “tv”, and check “internet”, click “Done”
– choose the internet bandwidth best for you
If you add a term to your agreement, you generally get better rates for the term duration, after which rates go back up and you may need to repeat the instructions above to improve your rates again. Good luck to you.
** December 7, 2023 **
Went through this again today and, as described above, clicking offers through your account is the most painless way to do this. Note, the rates they show you include taxes and fees, despite what it says, at least this is what I found.